Rigging Work Complete

I installed the completed forestay and finished my maintenance and rig inspection. The forestay is attached the masthead crane with a toggle, held in place with a long clevis pin, which in turn is secured with split pins.

The forestay - you can see the Sta-Lok end pinned to the toggle, which is pinned through the masthead fitting.

The forestay – you can see the Sta-Lok end pinned to the toggle, which is pinned through the masthead fitting.

I used new clevis and split pins in the these connections. A failure of any one of these components would bring the rig down, so it was prudent to replace all with new parts. I also replaced a couple of rusting split pins that secured the starboard side of the backstay and topping lift toggles.

New split pins for the backstay and topping lift.

New split pins for the backstay and topping lift.

Here are the not-so-stainless pins I removed. Maybe better labeled stainless-but-not-rustless. Whatever - they weren't very good materials.  I wonder where I got them . . .

Here are the not-so-stainless pins I removed. Maybe better labeled stainless-but-not-rustless. Whatever – they weren’t very good materials. I wonder where I got them . . .

Finally, I inspected the starboard cap shroud tang, which looked like it was cracked when I was sitting in the bosun’s chair 40 feet above the deck. I’ve now determined that it isn’t cracked. No, that line across the bolt hole is just a scratch. I removed the fitting and looked at it carefully, comparing it with other scratches. And I finally remembered it from 8 years ago when we refit and painted the mast – I remember worrying about it, but finally deciding it was a scratch then too.

2015-04-09 15.02.01

The scratch goes across from left to right, about 10 o’clock to about 5:30.

Here’s a photo of the mast on horses. Just a little work left before it gets re-stepped.

Horizontal makes it much easier to work on.  Worth every penny spent to get it there and put it back up, as far as I'm concerned.

Horizontal makes it much easier to work on. Worth every penny spent to get it there and put it back up, as far as I’m concerned.

I’ll wash and wax it while it’s down. I’ve also got LEDs on order for the steaming and anchor lamps. This is definitely the best time to replace those, even though the old ones still work. I was never satisfied with the Mega/Davis anchor light. Although it drew very little current, It was too dim. The LED will be much brighter, and draw only 40% of the Davis incandescent replacement. Finally, I’d also like to put some sort of guard over the deck lamp so that it doesn’t get knock out with a halyard slap again.

Oh, I also rebuilt the marine head this afternoon (I know – exciting. . . ), and recommissioned it.  It was time – two years on those rubber valve components is about all I’m willing to risk.  I kept the old ones for spares, as I think they will work in an emergency, but for this year, all the parts inside the toilet are new.

Advertisements
2 comments
  1. A little tip about the old rubber head parts. I keep a new set as spares. It is much nicer to have in the box than old used rubbers… I do the same for spark plugs for my outboards. Less mess to deal with in the end.
    Best of luck with the mast raising!
    Only 10 more days before I get my toy boat in at the yacht club.

    • Of course, new parts as spares are good idea. However, I rebuild the head annually, and don’t anticipate any trouble. Keeping the old serviceable parts as emergency back up saves me another $65 in buying a new rebuild kit.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: